Ceramic Infrared Heater

A ceramic infrared heater is a resistance coil embedded in a glazed ceramic body that radiates long-wave infrared from a face running at 300 to 750 °C. It is slow, steady and robust, and it is the radiant element used where plastic has to be heated evenly without being scorched.

Wavelength
Long wave infrared
Face temperature
300 to 750 °C
Response time
5 to 10 min
Shapes
Flat, trough and hollow
Built-in sensor
Optional type J or K
Voltage
220 / 380 V
Two white ceramic infrared emitters, one turned to show its ribbed face.

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Technical Specifications

The figures below are the usual ranges for this type of element. Builds outside them are possible.

Technical Specifications — product-tabs
PropertyValue
ConstructionResistance coil embedded in a glazed ceramic body, backed by insulation in a housing
Face temperature300 to 750 °C
WavelengthLong wave, around 3 to 10 micrometres
Response time5 to 10 minutes, either way
ShapesFlat panel, trough, and hollow with a built-in reflector shape
Common sizes60 × 60, 122 × 60, 245 × 60 mm
Built-in sensorType J or K thermocouple, laid into the ceramic
Working voltage220 single phase or 380 three phase V
ControlThyristor or solid state relay, tuned for a slow element
MountingIn a reflector frame, on ceramic terminal posts
TerminationNickel leads from the back, in ceramic beads
Power tolerance+5 to -10 %

Where It Is Used

Choosing, Fitting and Looking After It

Slow is a feature on a steady process

The mass of a ceramic panel is the reason it takes five or ten minutes to reach temperature, and it is also the reason it holds temperature so evenly once it is there. On an oven that runs all shift at one setting, that mass smooths out everything the controller does. The face barely moves between switching cycles, so the work sees a constant radiant field rather than a pulsing one.

The same mass is why a ceramic heater must be interlocked with the line. When the conveyor stops, the panel keeps radiating for minutes. Anything sitting under it will keep heating, and on plastic that means a scorched sheet by the time anyone reaches the machine.

The shape of the ceramic is a lens

Flat, trough and hollow elements all put out the same watts and put them in very different places. A flat panel covers a broad area evenly. A trough concentrates the radiation into a strip, which suits a narrow band on a moving web. A hollow element carries its own reflecting curve, so it directs its output forward without a separate reflector behind it.

Picking the right body shape is usually a better answer than adding power or adding reflectors, and it costs nothing extra.

Build the array for the edges, not the middle

Any heated area loses at the edges, because the outer work receives radiation from one side only while the middle receives it from all around. In a thermoforming oven this shows up as a sheet that forms well in the centre and badly at the rim. The fix is in the layout: tighten the element spacing around the perimeter, or add a row that overhangs the work. Turning the whole array up lifts the middle by the same amount as the edge and changes nothing.

Zoned control is what ceramic is really for

Because each panel can carry its own thermocouple in the ceramic, an array can be divided into zones and each zone held at a different face temperature. That is how a forming oven puts more heat where a sheet needs to draw deeper and less where it must not thin. An array of identical elements all on one circuit cannot do this, whatever its total power.

Handle the glaze as the working surface it is

The glazed face is what radiates, and it is also what protects the coil inside. Chip it with a tool, crack it with a cold splash, or clean it with anything abrasive, and the coil underneath is exposed. Elements fail at the damaged spot soon after. Let a panel cool before touching it, keep water and wet product away from a hot face, and clean it only when cold and only with a soft brush.

Terminals and lead routing behind the array

The back of a ceramic panel gets hot and the terminal posts sit right there. Use nickel leads in ceramic beads, keep them clear of the housing metal, and support the wiring so nothing hangs on a post. In a large array, run the wiring in a tray above the hot zone rather than draped behind the elements, so a lead never rests against a hot ceramic back.

Price

Price

The price for this product depends on the specification you order.

What Sets the Price

  • Diameter and length
  • Power and voltage needed
  • Sheath material (stainless steel, brass and so on)
  • Termination type and lead or thread length
  • Whether a thermocouple is built in
  • Order quantity
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How It Compares

Ceramic against the two faster radiant types.

How It Compares — product-tabs
FeatureCeramicQuartzHalogen
WavelengthLongMediumShort
ResponseMinutesSecondsUnder a second
Face temperature300 to 750 °C900 to 1200 °CUp to 2200 °C
Visible glowAlmost noneOrangeBright white
RobustnessHighGlass tubeGlass lamp
Full comparison of element types

Common Questions

Why choose the slowest radiant element?

Because a steady process does not need speed, and long wave is what most plastics absorb at the surface. A ceramic panel gives an even, gentle heat that will not mark a sheet, and its mass smooths out the on-off cycling of the controller.

What are the trough and hollow shapes for?

They shape the radiation. A flat panel spreads it broadly; a trough concentrates it into a strip; a hollow element has its own reflecting curve built into the ceramic. Choosing the shape is how the pattern is matched to the work without adding external reflectors.

How should an array be laid out?

In a grid over the work, with the elements spaced close enough that their patterns overlap, and an extra row or tighter spacing at the edges. The edges of a heated area always run cooler because they only receive heat from one side.

Does it need a built-in thermocouple?

On a thermoforming oven, usually yes — the sensor in the ceramic lets each zone be controlled to its own face temperature, which is what makes zoned forming possible. On a simple drying or warming job, a sensor on the work is enough.

Can it be switched with a contactor?

It can, because it is slow enough that the contactor will not cycle constantly. But a thyristor gives much better control: the element can hold a steady partial output instead of swinging between full on and off, which is what an even surface needs.

What damages a ceramic infrared heater?

Thermal shock and impact. A cold splash on a hot face cracks the glaze, and a knock chips it. Once the glaze is broken, the coil underneath is exposed to whatever is in the air and the element fails at that point.