Straight Tubular Heater

A straight tubular heater is the simplest form of tubular element: one straight rod with no bends and a terminal at each end. It is made for places that already have a straight bore, pipe or channel, where the element can sit in without changing direction.

Delivery: In stock, same day
Diameter: 6 to 10 mm
Buildable length: 300 to 6000 mm
Max working temperature: up to 600 °C
Voltage: 12, 24, 220 V
Custom builds: Any length and wattage

One straight stainless tubular element with a terminal pin at each end.

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Call us or send a WhatsApp message for a price, full specifications, or a custom build.

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The figures below are the usual ranges for this type of element. Builds outside them are possible.

Technical Specifications — product-tabs
Property	Value
Final shape	A straight rod with a terminal at each end
Sheath material	Stainless steel
Sheath diameter	6, 8, 10 mm
Length range	300 to 6000 mm
Max working temperature	up to 600 °C
Cold end length	25 to 50 at each end mm
Working voltage	12, 24 or 220 single phase V
Length tolerance	around ±2 %
Termination	Threaded stud, silicone lead wire, ceramic bead

Sizes and Specifications We Supply

Technical Specifications — product-tabs
Property	What we supply
Diameter	6 to 10 mm
Length	300 mm to 6 m
Maximum power per element	5,000 W
Voltage	12, 24, 220 V
Sheath material	Stainless steel
Maximum working temperature	600 °C
Termination	Nut or threaded boss
Delivery	In stock, same day
Minimum order	1 piece

The size ordered most often is 8 mm diameter, 2 m long.

Where straight works

Anywhere there is already a straight path: a deep bore in a metal block, a pipe that needs to run hot, a tank with a straight side entry, or a duct the element crosses. In these cases the straight element is both cheaper and easier to replace — you simply pull it out.

Measure the space you have, not the space on the drawing

The most common problem when ordering a straight element is that the overall length does not fit the space. Remember that you also need clear room behind it, about as long as the element itself, so that one day you can withdraw it. If that room is not there, you either pick a shorter element with a higher wattage — which pushes up the watt density — or go formed.

Order the cold end to suit your wall thickness

If the element passes through a tank wall, the cold end needs to be at least as long as the wall plus its insulation. A short cold end means the hot zone stays inside the wall, and it will burn the wall and the sealing gasket.

In air and in liquid, these are two different elements

One straight element at a given wattage stays cool in water and runs hot in air. Put the element you ordered for a water tank into an air duct and its sheath temperature multiplies. Tell us the medium before you order; the safe watt density is chosen from that.

Fitting horizontally and vertically

Fitted horizontally in a liquid, do not sit the element near the bottom or sediment settles on it — a few centimetres clear of the floor is the best place. Fitted vertically, the terminal end should be uppermost so steam and drips cannot reach it.

Looking after it

Every few months, measure the element’s resistance and compare it against the original figure. A clear rise means the wire inside is thinning and a failure is coming. It takes a few minutes and it saves an unplanned line stop.

Price

5,500 – 12,000 Toman

Priced per centimetre of length, not per element.

Prices checked Aug 31, 2026 — confirm the figure before ordering, as it moves with the exchange rate and with the specification.

What Sets the Price

Diameter and length
Power and voltage needed
Sheath material (stainless steel, brass and so on)
Termination type and lead or thread length
Whether a thermocouple is built in
Order quantity

Request a Price

When straight is the right answer, and when to go formed instead.

How It Compares — product-tabs
Feature	Straight	Formed
Fitting	Needs a straight path	Fits awkward spaces
Heated length in tight space	Limited by the path	More, because it folds
Build cost	Lower	Higher, for the bending step
Replacement	Simple, pull it straight out	May mean removing parts

Full comparison of element types

What lengths can a straight tubular heater be made in?

In practice from about 100 mm to about 3000 mm. You set the exact length, and a non-standard length costs no extra because every element is built individually anyway.

Why do the two ends stay cool?

Those sections are the cold ends and carry no resistance wire. They are kept cool on purpose so the terminal and the tank wall do not get hot. The cold end length can be ordered to match your wall thickness.

Can I bend a straight element myself?

No. Bending it after manufacture shifts the magnesium oxide powder inside and creates a hot spot. If you need a bent shape, the element has to be formed during manufacture.

How is this different from an immersion heater?

A straight tubular heater is just the rod. An immersion heater is that rod mounted on a thread or a flange so it can be sealed into a tank wall. If your tank needs a seal, choose an immersion heater.