Finned Tubular Heater

A finned tubular heater is a tubular element with thin metal fins wound and welded around the sheath. The fins multiply the surface touching the air by three to five times, so the same wattage transfers at a much lower sheath temperature. It is the standard choice for heating air and ducts.

Surface area gain: 3 to 5 times
Main use: Air and duct heating
Fin material: Galvanised steel
Max working temperature: up to 100 °C
Watt density on fin: 1.5 to 3 W/cm²
Airflow needed: Yes, essential

A straight finned tubular heater, a close-wound fin spiral over the tube with a threaded terminal.

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The figures below are the usual ranges for this type of element. Builds outside them are possible.

Technical Specifications — product-tabs
Property	Value
Construction	Tubular element with spiral fins welded onto the sheath
Fin material	Galvanised steel
Fin pitch	3 to 6 mm
Diameter over fins	28 to 45 mm
Sheath diameter	8, 10, 11, 12.7 mm
Max working temperature	up to 100 °C
Safe watt density on fin surface	1.5 to 3 W/cm²
Minimum air velocity	about 2 m/s
Working voltage	220 single phase V

Sizes and Specifications We Supply

Technical Specifications — product-tabs
Property	What we supply
Length	150 to 1,500 mm
Maximum power per element	2,000 W
Voltage	220 V
Sheath material	Stainless steel tube, galvanised fins
Maximum working temperature	100 °C
Termination	Threaded
Delivery	2 working days
Minimum order	1 piece

Fins are for air, not for liquid

The distinction is simple but it gets missed often. Air is a poor conductor and carries the element’s heat away slowly; fins make up for that. In a liquid, though, fins are just somewhere for deposits to settle. The few millimetres between fins fill with limescale within months in hard water, and then the fins stop helping and start acting like a blanket around the element.

Never run a finned element without airflow

This is the important safety point for this product. A finned element is designed for moving air. If the fan fails or the filter blocks completely, still air cannot carry the heat away and the sheath temperature climbs fast. There are two common protections: a differential pressure switch across the airflow, and a high-limit thermostat mounted on the duct wall. Whichever you choose, it must cut power to the element directly, not merely raise an alarm.

Laying them out in a duct

Set the elements across the airflow and leave space between rows so air can pass through the fins. Where several rows sit behind one another, stagger them so the air is forced between the fins rather than slipping past them. The corners of a duct are usually the slowest-moving air; do not put an element there.

Match the fin pitch to how clean the air is

A tight pitch gives more surface but clogs sooner. In industrial dryers and dusty environments, choose an open pitch and thicker fins even if it means a longer element. In an air handling unit with a decent filter, a 3 to 4 mm pitch gives the best result.

Cleaning

Blow the fins out with compressed air, working against the normal airflow direction. Do not use a stiff wire brush — the fins are thin and bending them closes off the air path. Where a film of grease has settled, which is common in food production, wash with a mild alkaline solution and dry it completely before switching on.

Signs that a failure is coming

If the outlet air temperature has dropped but the power draw is unchanged, the fins are probably clogged. If the duct wall is hotter than usual, airflow has fallen. Both are early warnings, and dealing with them costs less than replacing the element.

Price

1,500,000 – 8,000,000 Toman

Prices checked Aug 31, 2026 — confirm the figure before ordering, as it moves with the exchange rate and with the specification.

What Sets the Price

Diameter and length
Power and voltage needed
Sheath material (stainless steel, brass and so on)
Termination type and lead or thread length
Whether a thermocouple is built in
Order quantity

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In air, finned and bare are two different worlds.

How It Compares — product-tabs
Feature	Finned	Plain tubular
Surface touching the air	3 to 5 times	Baseline
Sheath temperature at same wattage	Much lower	High
Suitable for liquids	No	Yes
Sensitivity to airflow loss	High	High

Full comparison of element types

Why does heating air need a finned element?

Air takes heat away far more slowly than water does. A bare element in air runs hot and burns out. The fins multiply the surface touching the air, so the same wattage leaves at a much lower sheath temperature and the element lasts several times longer.

What happens if the fan stops?

The element reaches a dangerous temperature within minutes. Always fit a protective thermostat or an airflow switch that cuts power to the element when the fan stops. That part costs less than the element itself.

What difference does fin pitch make?

A tighter pitch means more fins and more surface, but also more resistance to airflow and quicker clogging in dusty air. For clean air a 3 to 4 mm pitch works well; for industrial air, open the pitch up.

Can a finned element work in liquid?

No. Fins collect deposits in liquid and the gaps between them silt up quickly. For liquids use a plain tubular or an immersion heater.

How do I choose the fin material?

Galvanised steel is enough for ordinary air at moderate temperatures. For humid air, food environments or higher temperatures, stainless fins are the better choice.